Showing posts with label rants. Show all posts
Showing posts with label rants. Show all posts

Thursday, April 9, 2009

Mismatched dinner, or why menu planning is extremely difficult for me


Tonight, Kait turns 21. To celebrate, I made her Ina Garten's pumpkin roulade with ginger buttercream. Weshop didn't have mascarpone, so I substituted by mixing cream cheese, heavy cream, and butter. It's not going to fool anyone, but it's still pretty good. For dinner we made pizza margherita. The courses didn't exactly match... After dinner I briefly read Ina Garten's tips on menu planning "I don't have to think about it, I just know it will be delicious", and it dawned on me that we inhabit completely different taste-universes.
I was reared on a particular set of flavors that doesn't seem to apply to the food I cook now. A lot of cooks emphasize putting together dishes and flavors that go together (like lamb and mint, pork and apple), and I never understood what they meant. I think a lot of it has to do with cultural differences--because I didn't grow up eating lamb with mint, I never understood why people think lamb and mint match. In my mind, lamb and cumin is the more natural pairing. Same thing with pork and apple. When I think pork, I think cabbage. I love lamb and mint, and I really like pork and apple. However, a lot of people take those combinations for granted. Ina Garten says that certain foods just have a "natural affinity" for one another. I think she's just a little ethnocentric. Ina, it would be so much more useful if you could explain why you think certain foods just go togehter, instead of just telling me to do it intuitively. My intuition is completely different from yours. Afterall, this is the girl that wanted Jamaican beef patties with sushi for the reception after my opera, which was orchestrated for western instruments and gamelan, and featured a paper mache dinosaur painted like a De Kooning.

Anyway, I really liked the pumpkin roulade. Although the cream cheese really just made it into carrot cake with pumpkin. The only tricky part was inverting the cake from the pan, but I managed. It also doesn't look too professional, but I blame our lack of space (I assembled the cake on a chair because we didn't have counter space), and the fact that we don't have a fine sieve for confectioner's sugar.

Wednesday, April 8, 2009

pros and cons of Ina Garten


For dinner with Sarah tonight I made Ina Garten's French Apple Tart from Barefoot Contessa Back to Basics. It turned out very well (more on that later). 

 Garten is one of the few Food Network chefs that I actually like (Rachel Ray is obnoxious, Alton Brown tries too hard, and Paula Deen is too peppy for comfort... though admittedly, they all have some great recipes). She has a relaxed style, and her recipes are all fantastic. She's really good at balancing flavors and creating food that's both subtle and powerful. Furthermore, while she appreciates and encourages simple food, she's not obsessed with speedy shortcuts the way so many cooking shows are. However, her philosophy and processes are just not very well suited to college, or, as a girl from rural South Carolina-- anyone else I know. 

For example, 80% of her recipes call for some kind of expensive, exotic booze. In a section called "how to cook like a pro," Ina advises the novice cook to buy the best possible cookware, (like Le Creuset), and the best possible ingredients. For entertaining, Ina stresses the importance of making flower arrangements a day in advance, and ironing napkins. Ina doesn't trust oven dials -- she gets an oven thermometer to get the oven at the precise temperature. On her show, Ina doesn't break a sweat-- she has so many fancy appliances she barely chops or mixes anything by hand. 

That's all nice and great, and don't get me wrong, I would like a set of Le Creuset cookware as much as the next girl, and good ingredients can certainly make all the difference, but a cheap pot in the hands of a good cook is a million times better than an idiot with a Kitchenaid. If someone asked me to make a list called "how to cook like a pro," being OCD about oven temperatures and buying expensive stuff are the last things I would think of. 

Finally, the thing that bothers me the most about Ina is that she's extremely wasteful. When Ina makes biscuits, she cuts out biscuits from a large sheet of dough with a cookie cutter, and then she throws away the rest. Why not reassemble the scraps and re-cut with the cookie cutter? Good home cooks do this (I know for a fact that Deb at Smitten Kitchen does). If you're worried about the biscuits turning out a bit lumpy (which is just a cosmetic difference, it doesn't affect taste at all), just cut pieces with a knife and have square biscuits. Duh. 

So yes, today I used an Ina Garten recipe, but I did it in our crappy oven with a crappy sheet pan and cheap rum instead of apple Calvados. Instead of using a food processor, I opted for easier cleanup and mixed the dough by hand in a bowl, which only took me two more minutes than if I'd used the Cuisinart. I also used raspberry preserves instead of apricot jelly, because that's what we had on hand. And after I cut the edges from the pastry, I stuck the remaining dough together and created a smaller, irregularly-shaped tart on the side (which didn't taste any different than the square ones). Most importantly: It was delicious!